Friday, February 13, 2015

GREEN BEAUTY By Carrie Stevens

Fly Tying Demonstration by: NIFTY Member Bob Hovet

Demonstration Date is

Tonight’s Fly:
Carrie Stevens

Materials (list materials in the order they are tied on the hook)
  • Hook:  Orvis/Daiichi Dick Talleur 2370 7XL #2 or (see below)       
  • Thread:  White Danville 6/0 AND black Danville 6/0 or UTC if preferred, recommend do not use Uni-Thread           
  • Tail:     None  
  • Tag:  Med silver tinsel
  • Rib: Med silver tinsel
  • Body:  Orange floss (4strands of Danville Rayon)    tied thin                                  
  • Belly:  Sparse white bucktail
  • Throat: Golden pheasant crest feather as long as shoulder, curving upward
  • Underwing: 4-6 peacock herls preferably from stick (tips unbroken)
  • Wing: 4 olive saddle hackles; length should be about 1 hook gap past rear of hook.
  • Shoulder: Wood duck dyed mallard flank 1/3 as long as wing
  • Cheek: Jungle Cock eye cemented to close any splits.
  • **Wing, shoulder, cheek may be tied in individually or assembled, glued and tied in as a unit      
  • Head:  Black thread               

About the Fly
Rangeley Streamers are from the Rangeley Lakes region of Maine mainly from the early 20th century.  The most famous series is from Carrie Stevens. Other noteworthy tyers are Bert Quimby, Herbert Welch. Originally intended for Rangeley area brook trout and landlocked salmon. Today they are used any time a baitfish type fly is desired.  Fish in typical streamer fashion, down and across.  (Kelly Galloup has the Gray Ghost in his list of flies in Modern Streamers for Trophy Trout; see his book for a deep, sinking line presentation).

HOOKS: Stevens typically used Allcock hooks in what appear to be 6 to 8XL.  Current hooks suitable for these flies include:
Daiichi 2370, a 7XL, 3XH, tapered loop eye, limerick bend designed by Dick Talleur; also sold by Orvis.
Gaelic Supreme Rangeley Streamer, either 8XL 2XH, or 6XL std wire, or 10XL 3XH, sproat bend down eye designed by Mike Martinek.
Partridge CS15,  10XL heavy wire Mustad L87-3665, a 7XL, 3XH limerick bend down eye
TMC 300, a 6XL heavy wire, sproat bend down eye.
The Mustad and TMC are probably the most practical for fishing due to more reasonable lengths and wider hook gap; they are the least expensive.  The sizes generally range from #1 to #8; specific availability varies with the model selected.

Tying Instructions:
Skills/Techniques used in the pattern.  Select a technique used in tying this pattern and fully explain it. 

Use of 6xl to 10xl length hooks.
Complex wing construction.
Setting feather wings at 10 and 2.
Wrapping floss body.

Instructions for unglued wing assembly.
Place hook in vise.  Be sure to tighten vise on hook as tightly as you can.  Thread leverage on long hooks tends to pull it out of place more than on a standard length.
Start white thread at 2-3 eye widths behind eye and wind thread base to above the point, flattening thread as you wind back.
Wind thread forward about 5 tinsel widths.  Trim mylar to a point. Tie in with silver side against hook  where thread hangs and wrap back to end of thread windings.  Wrap thread to front, flattening as you go.
Tie in 4 strands orange floss on top of hook and wrap back to just where tinsel is tied in, flattening as you go.  Wrap thread back to front, flattening as you go.
Wrap floss forward to tie in point and secure with 2 half hitches; trim.
Wrap tag with abutting turns of tinsel up to back of floss body, then begin wrapping forward as a rib.. Tie off with 2 half hitches and trim.
Cut sparse amount of white bucktail from upper part of tail (to minimize flaring). Tie in on bottom of hook (glue if desired) making sure fibers stay on bottom of hook.  Length should extend almost to inner rear of hook gap. Trim butts on angle and wrap; return thread to bucktail tie in point.
Tie in golden pheasant crest feather as long as shoulder (1/3 of wing length). It should curve upward. Tie under the bucktail. Flatten stem with pliers or tweezers if needed. Trim butt and return thread to tie in point.
Tie in peacock herl on top of hook; avoid having them flare upwards. They should extend 1 hook gap beyond back of hook. Trim and wrap to tie in point.
Tie off white thread.  Attach black thread.
**Tie in 2 saddle feathers on far side of hook at the 2 o’clock position as you face the eye of the hook.  Capture just a few of the fibers with the thread.  Make only 2 wraps of thread to hold in place.
Tie in the other 2 saddle feathers on near side of hook at the 10 o’clock position. Manipulate feathers as needed, then begin more wraps with most tension on the thread as you pull up. Wings should extend approx. 1 hook gap beyond back of hook (same as herl). Trim butts
Tie in mallard flank with center stem over-lying center stems of hackles. Try to capture just 2-3 fibers at tie in point. Again, start with minimal loose wraps and tighten with upward wraps as you wrap slightly forward. Trim butts. Return thread to shoulder tie in point.
Tie in jungle cock eyes with center over-lying center stems of shoulders/saddle hackles. Use loose initial wraps, align, trim butts and finish with tight upward wraps.
Complete head making sure to cover all stem material that may be showing thru.  Whip finish. Finish with something to make a glossy head.

**Alternate instructions for glued wing assemblies: 
Glue can be rubber cement, thickened Sally Hansen or flexament.  Need to use thick glue to avoid a thinner glue wicking up into feather fibers.
After putting hook in vise (for length reference), gather saddle hackles, mallard flanks and jungle cock eyes and prepare to proper length.
Fix any splits in JC with glue.
Select 1 pair of hackles and put small amount glue along inner center stems, press together.
Put small amount of glue on outer saddle hackle center stems and press on shoulder.
Put small amount of glue on back of JC eye and press onto the shoulder center stem.
All center stems should be aligned.  Put small amount of glue on inner surfaces of each saddle hackle.
You will need to experiment, as I am still doing, with letting the glue dry at the various steps to avoid carry over.

**Alternate wing mount of assembled (glued) wings.  Attach at 10 and 2 as described above. Press wings together.

Streamer Fly Tying and Fishing: Joseph D. Bates Jr
Streamers and Bucktails, the Big Fish Flys: Joseph D. Bates Jr
Carrie G. Stevens Maker of Rangeley Favorite Trout and Salmon Flies: Graydon and Leslie Hilyard
Tying Classic Freshwater Streamers: David Klausmeyer
Traditional Streamers and Bucktails: Don Bastian
Classic Maine Streamers: Mike Martinek, Jr.


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