Thursday, November 19, 2015

Squimp Pattern

Fly Tying Demonstration by NIFTy member Mark LoVerde

Demonstration Date: 11/16/2015

Tonight’s Fly: The Squimp
Hook: Diaichi 2546 or similar hook (Mustad 34007 or S71sz-34007;TMC811S, Gamakatsu SS15; Partridge CS52, etc)Thread: ~95 Denier or 6/0; tan or other color to match fly
Tail: Craft Fur – sand, tan or you other favorite shrimpy squidy color; light Craft Fur takes marker coloring fairly well so can use it to get other colors; artic fox can be used for smaller versions; also matching Crystal Flash
Body: Medium chenille or ice dub; again tan or other desired color
Wing: Same craft fur as above; same Crystal Flash as above
Head: N/A
Eyes: Dumbbell; black or I prefer the painted or inset eyes (as above) over plain lead
Legs: Brown, sand, or other complementary rubber legs; barred or sparkled are better

About the Fly

Nobody knows the original designer for certain. In one post I have seen it attributed to Bruce Olson, who used to be with Umpqua Feather Merchants and died just this past August.

Primary species are redfish, bonefish, permit, but this can be used for any saltwater fish that eats shrimp or small squid. I have lost several of these flies on unknown toothy critters in the surf or tide (was not using a wire leader). Tied in darker browns or greens (and without the need for a saltwater hook) this could be used as a smallmouth pattern, though I would probably shorten the craft fur a little. Can be stripped through the water (more squid like) or stripped and allowed to rest on the bottom (more shrimp like). As the hook point rides up the fly is ‘weed resistant’ but not weedless.

A similar but more ostentatious fly is the Ehlers' Pink Long Strip Bonefish (see pattern in the most recent Eastern Fly Fishing magazine.

Tying Instructions:

1. Insert hook in vice the normal way (point side down). Tie in the eyes (with regular and figure eight raps and all) between the bend and the hook point. Make sure the eyes are securely in place (you can use a little head cement of you want). This placement of the weight gives the fly a different action than on flies where the weight is near the eye of the hook.

2. Directly behind the eyes tie in a clump of Craft Fur, about matchstick and the length of the hook shank. You can vary (longer or shorter for a more shrimp or squid like look). On top add in a couple strands of Crystal Flash.

3. Tie in a pair of rubber legs on each side. Length is a matter of personal preference (again can make the fly look more squiddy or shrimpy) but a good starting point is the length of the Craft Fur (about on hook length.

4. On top of the materials, tie in the chenille (or dub the thread with the ice dub). Wrap forward, forming a tapered body (wider toward the back). Make sure to figure eight around the eyes. Tie off and cut the chenille or end the dubbing a little back from the hook eye (perhaps a barb length).

5. Tie in another clump of Craft Fur, a little thicker and longer than the first. It should reach to about or just past the end of the first clump when tied in. On top of the Craft Fur tie in a couple strands of Crystal Flash.

6. On each side, tie in a rubber leg making sure they stay on and are pointed down the side. Lock in with wraps, and whip finish a tapered head. Trim the legs to your preference; I prefer a mullet – long in back but shorter in front. Finish with head cement.

7. Go somewhere warm and fish it.

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